七日談（香港篇）/夏至吃麵，盛暑裏的舌尖清歡-何志平, Patrick, Chi Ping Ho

七日談（香港篇）/夏至吃麵，盛暑裏的舌尖清歡

何志平 | Patrick Ho
2025-06-21 09:54

<section data-arttype="img_1" data-insertafter="true" data-readonly="true" style="box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;, Tahoma, Verdana, STHeiTi, simsun, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial; margin: 27px 0px; width: auto;"> <section data-ratio="custom" data-slectratio="1,1.5,1.3333,1.7778,1.6,custom" data-uploadimage="1" data-viewmode="0" style="box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; width: auto;"> <section style="box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; width: auto;"> <section style="box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; width: auto;"><a href="javascript:;" style="box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration: none; color: var(--theme-color, #11b0ff); cursor: default; display: block; text-align: center; width: auto;" title=""><img alt="095403_7BeH72.jpeg" data-bigsrc="/data/uploads/mychina20170426s92f10a5489f7baac/images/article_component/144375/20250623_095415_Z8CjRf.jpeg" data-default="/resource/img/widgets/article/default/img_1.png" data-src="/data/uploads/mychina20170426s92f10a5489f7baac/images/article_component/144375/20250623_095415_79tTpD.jpeg" src="https://www.mychina.hk/data/uploads/mychina20170426s92f10a5489f7baac/images/article_component/144375/20250623_095415_79tTpD.jpeg" style="box-sizing: border-box; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: top; border: none; width: auto;" width="100%"></a></section> </section> </section> <section style="box-sizing: border-box; overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; text-align: center; font-size: 14px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153); padding-top: 6px; width: auto;"> <p placeholder="圖片描述，不輸入則不顯示" style="box-sizing:border-box; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:0px; padding:0px; width:auto">圖：夏至這天，吃「夏至麵」是中國很多地區的傳統習俗。</p> </section> </section> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">今日夏至，陽光燦爛，一瞬流光勝千年。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">作為最早被確定的一個二十四節氣，夏至，五月中，假也，極也，萬物於此皆假大而至極也。古人雖不完全懂得大自然變幻的科學原理，但仍仰觀天文、俯察地理，每天測量正午時日影長度，日北至，日長之至，日影短至，一年中日影投射大地最短的那天，便是夏至，又稱朝節。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">此時，萬物向陽，陽氣之至極，陰氣之始至，皇帝祭地百姓祭祖，所謂「夏至日，祭地祇，以其陰，故五月一陰升之日，當陰氣升而祭之」。人們視夏至為吉日，文武百官放假三天，回家與親人團聚暢飲，以避夏日酷暑，曰之歇夏。同時南北大部分地區都要嘗新麥，吃麵，祈豐收，講求「一碗麵下肚，暑氣消大半」，用一碗熱乎麵或是過涼麵，開啟炎炎夏日。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">至於其中緣由，眾說紛紜。不過，麵條形狀長長，應是食物裏最長一種，不僅寓意着夏至白晝時間最長，還象徵生命的延續和長存，希望長長久久，福運綿長。夏至過後，太陽折射點南移，黑夜延長，民間又言之「吃過夏至麵，一天短一線」。那漸少的一線，或恰是麵條的寬度？</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">夏至這日，會早早歸家吃點荔枝、喝口涼茶，最好再來一碗雲吞麵，反正就是由着心意，盡量放下手頭的事，哪怕只是臨窗而坐，看陽光流瀉，總要在煩熱的盛夏宵漏深長當中，給自己留一點短暫空閒的涼快。此刻窗外，鳥鳴蟬叫，綠蔭繽紛，樹影搖曳，疊着婆娑閃動的光影，風長日長，恣意熱烈，我心中惟願時光慢慢，好把生活裏的平安抒懷猶如嗦麵一般拉拉長。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">我很喜歡吃麵的，香港本幫麵是鹼水麵和粉麵，像河粉、瀨粉等。鹼水麵以竹昇麵獨具特色，師傅們和麵以鴨蛋液代替水，或摻雜少量鹼水，坐在竹竿上利用身體重力和彈性，一下一下反覆擠壓麵團，由此按製出的麵條細如髮絲，且韌性十足，爽滑彈牙。一勺高湯，半寸韭黃，幾粒鮮蝦雲吞，一把竹昇細麵，讓人朝思暮想，回味無窮。也可另加牛腩、豬腳等，甚或撒上薑葱乾拌，再灑一澆浙醋，吃起來亦別有滋味。一碗竹昇雲吞麵，在香港人心中的分量，絕不亞於牛肉拉麵之於蘭州人，油潑麵之於陝西人，麻辣小麵之於重慶人。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">龍蝦伊麵，則是一種比較洋氣而又粗的香港手擀麵，在伊麵上加用奶酪醬煮熟的龍蝦。撈丁是香港茶餐廳的特色美食，把即食麵煮熟撈乾再配以醬汁，搭配煎蛋、雞翅和午餐肉等。車仔麵，多由香港街頭小攤供應，食客可自主混搭選材，然後輔以咖喱汁、沙嗲汁或牛腩汁等。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">魚蛋粉，通常是清湯河粉，就是糊狀米粉上蒸籠成片狀冷卻後，劃成條狀而成，類似北方涼皮或釀皮，再配上魚丸和魚塊。瀨粉是把粘米粉拌和熱水成團，放入架在沸水大鍋上的瀨粉木槽中，擠壓成又長又韌又爽又滑的米粉條。相比河粉的綿密，瀨粉口感更加軟糯黏稠。一碗好味的瀨粉，真正靈魂在於湯底，豬骨湯、雞湯和海鮮湯等熬製異常考究，往往慢火燉煮數小時。配料也豐富多樣，有叉燒、燒鵝、豉油雞、牛雜等，每一種都能與粉和湯底絕佳搭配，演繹出不同美味。當濃郁熱湯澆入，瞬間激發瀨粉香氣，粉條充分吸收湯汁，醇厚鮮味與粉條柔韌完美融合，瀨粉滑爽入味又筋道，每一口都鮮香四溢，直沁心脾。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">都說好的麵，出了本土就水土不服，變味，任誰也做不出那種原汁原味了。麵食源自本鄉本土，生根於本地出產小麥或稻米，和麵用的水，夜以繼日燃燒煮着的老湯料底，還有土生土長做麵師傅的手。離開任一樣，就算原料再講究，麵也會隱隱約約的不對味。這種不對味，可能也只有最眷戀家鄉的味蕾才能真切感受到。單單河粉，我在新加坡、馬來西亞等地都吃過多次。因為在不知吃什麼之時，粉麵總會成為首選。不過每一次的味道都與上一次不同，也不知是人變了，還是事或心情影響，味道換了裝，總之永遠趕不及香港的那個味。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">我也不曉得中國的麵條究竟有多少種，但放眼大江南北，到處都在吃麵。湯的拌的炸的撈的炒的，擀的拉的切的削的扯的，各方各麵各種滋味，有冷有熱，恍如人生。一碗看似簡單的麵條背後，承載着千年文化積澱和地域特色。我去往各地，每一處的各種麵食總要嘗一嘗。不管是老字號，還是朋友推介的其他好味的，都會去逛逛。能嘗到一碗毫不含糊的老手藝，才算感受到這座城的煙火氣。麵條也好似飲食中的脈絡一樣，把各個城市中人的生活聯結起來，就連精神裏也有了一股子筋道。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">我每次到歐洲，尤其是意大利，最喜歡穿街走巷搜尋各式意大利麵。意大利人也跟中國人一樣，喜食麵，把麵條玩出了三百多種形狀，但醬汁主要有紅青白黑四種。我常點被許多人看做黑暗料理的墨魚汁麵，一份吃完，唇齒漆黑。然而墨魚汁麵能從數不勝數的海鮮拌麵中脫穎而出，還基於經典紅醬再加入新鮮墨魚汁，茄汁的作用更突出墨魚本身的鮮甜，將深海的生機轉化為舌尖的悸動，一口下去，味蕾直接「起飛」，有種滿足感，彷彿某種缺失被填滿。只能說烹飪的靈感無處不在，東西方麵食既有差異，也有不謀而合之處，這正是麵食的魅力。</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">東西南北，不妨在今天，赴一場清歡，人人來一碗夏至麵，降火開胃，任愜意在舌尖散開，得福閒靜，忘憂於心！</p> <p style="-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff; box-sizing:border-box; color:#000000; font-family:&quot;Microsoft YaHei&quot;,Tahoma,Verdana,STHeiTi,simsun,sans-serif; font-size:17px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-variant-ligatures:normal; font-weight:400; letter-spacing:normal; line-height:1.67; margin-bottom:0px; margin-left:0px; margin-right:0px; margin-top:27px; orphans:2; padding:0px; text-align:start; text-decoration-color:initial; text-decoration-style:initial; text-decoration-thickness:initial; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; widows:2; width:auto; word-spacing:0px">夏至，夏安。</p>